SNS Binding Tutorial (and General Binding Tute)

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NordicSnipe
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SNS Binding Tutorial (and General Binding Tute)

Post by NordicSnipe » Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:29 pm

This is a tutorial for the removal and mounting of Salomon SNS Bindings.
I hope this will be helpful for many people.
Please copy and post it to other sites like TelemarkTips, etc... I am not a member there, but I read it.
You can post it anywhere you like. Thanks!

Removal

We start with an SNS Profil binding mounted on a Fischer Country-BC Ski.

Image

Start by popping off the plastic screw covers. One at the rear and one at the front. Use a small thin screwdriver. Try not to damage it too much.

Image Image

Remove the rear screw using an appropriate screw driver. The screws are Posi-drive. If you use a phillips bit, make sure it fits securely, so as not to strip the head.

Once the rear-screw is out, remove the rear-part of the binding. It is glued onto the ski and snaps into the front-part of the binding.
Carefully pry it off with a screw driver and then slide it back and out from the front-part.

Image

When the rear-part is off, it exposes the 2 rear-front screws.
Remove the 3 front screws and take the front part off.
Clean up all the glue and stuff.
Take this opportunity to clean up and lube the binding mechanism. (silicone spray or grease)

Image

Make a Template

Do these steps as precisely as possible and triple-check.

Next we make a template of the screw pattern for installation.
-Take a piece of paper long enough to cover the binding area.
-Draw a straight line down the length of the paper that will be used to align the template with the edge of the ski.
-Make sure this line is perfectly straight by measuring the distance from the edge of the paper.
-Align this marking on the template with the edge of the ski as precisely as possible and tape it securely in place.
-Then locate each of the 4 holes and use a pencil to punch the location of each of these holes.

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Now, we must precisely draw the Pin-Line. Which is the slot that the pin on your boot snaps into the binding.
-Do this by placing the front-part of the binding on the template and align it with the holes.
-Precisely mark the spot on the template, at both sides of the binding, at the exact centre of the binding pin-slot.
-Draw a line through it. This is the pin-line and is very important for installing the binding. It should be at 90° to the edge of the template.
-Cut an additional hole along the pin-line as shown, so that we can use this to align the pin-line on the template, with the pin-line on the ski.

Image Image

Installation

It's good to practice this on a spare piece of wood first.

We will be installing the SNS binding on a Madshus Vidda-BC ski.

Image

First we need to mark two lines on the ski. One straight down the centre of the ski and one at the centre of gravity (CG)
Place a piece of masking tape down the length of the binding area and in the area of the CG as shown below.
-Measure the width of the ski in the binding area and at the exact middle point mark the ski along the binding area and then draw a line lengthwise along it. Make sure this is the exact centre of the ski!

Find the CG and mark it as precisely as possible by balancing it upon a scraper... for example.
-For your ski, there might be "range" in which the ski is able to balance. Mark the front-most and rear-most points where the ski will balance and then we can say that in-between them is the exact CG.
-The CG may also vary between the skis. You can average the point; or choose the front point for skating and the rear point for classic. You must use the same point on each ski though!
(More about the effects of Pin-Location below.)

Image Image Image

You need to decide where you want the Pin-line to be on the ski.
For most skiers the proper location is exactly at the centre of gravity.

Once you've got the CG marked, you can decide where you want the Pin-Line to be. Some guidelines from Fischer:
For Classic: CG to 1 cm behind CG.
For Skating: CG.

Binding More Forward:
Skating: Not Common
Classic: Greater pressure on climbing zone. - Advantage, Easier Climbing, more reliable kick action. - Important, reduction in gliding properties.

Binding Further Back:
Skating: Pressure reduction in shovel section. - Advantage, more forgiving in terms of skiing style. - Important, not as dynamic.
Classic: Shovel stays better on track. Less Pressure on climbing zone. - Advantage, better gliding qualities. - Important, kick action more difficult.

More detail in these links on Pin-Location.
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/9721/serverb.jpg
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/3094/server2t.jpg

So, you should now have a Centre-Line and Pin-Line marked on your ski and some human-fuel. :D

Image

Take your template and place it on the ski. It is very important that you align it carefully!
-The front and rear holes should be aligned with the Centre-Line on the ski. Make sure that the Centre-Line on the ski passes in the exact centre of the front and rear holes on the template!
-The next alignment point is the Pin-Line. Using the hole that you cut in the template, align the Pin-Line of the template with the Pin-Line on the ski.
-Make sure it is correctly aligned lengthwise and width-wise and then tape it securely in place.

Use a marker to mark the 4 holes on the ski using the template.
-Take a hammer and punch (or screwdriver with a point). Place the punch exactly in the centre of each of the holes and give it a bang to leave a dimple in the top of the ski. This makes drilling easier.
-Make sure you make the dimple in the EXACT centre of the holes on the template!

Take a small drill bit to drill the pilot holes. Put a piece of duct tape to mark the thread-area of the screw, so that you do not drill too deep.

Image

Drill the 4 pilot holes. Make sure you drill as perfectly straight in as possible.
-Then take a 3.5 or 4.1mm drill bit. Mark it with the duct tape aswell.
(I used a 3.9mm drill bit, as that is what I have...)
-Drill the final holes in the ski using the bigger drill bit.
-Take the masking tape off the ski.
-Clean out all the dust from the holes.
-Clean the top of the ski off with alcohol and cloth to make sure that our glue/tape will bond well.

Image Image

Put some wood glue in the holes.
Take the front-part of the binding and place it over the holes. Screw it in firmly. Place some strong pressure down onto the screwdriver to make sure it cuts the threads well. Make sure it is tight, but do not over-tighten and strip the hole!!

For the Rear-part of the binding. I used some very sticky double-sided tape in the same places the glue was.
-Slide the rear-part into the front-part and press the tape/glue down firmly.
-Screw in the rear screw.

Pop the plastic screw covers back in place.
It is done!

Image

Turn the skis Topside-Down to dry, so that the glue does not settle in the bottom of the holes.

Go Ski !! :thumbright:

P.S. Here's two video's showing the installation of another type of binding. Same principles apply.

Mounting DynaDuke Plates Part 1 and 2.
http://www.youtube.com/user/dynaduke

Comments Welcome.

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Post by NordicSnipe » Fri Jan 08, 2010 4:03 pm

P.S.S. Don't let your kitty steal your skis!

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fishskicanoe
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Post by fishskicanoe » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:21 pm

That was very interesting.

I'm going to be moving a pair of Profils myself this weekend, although I was going to pay to have the holes drilled.
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Post by tundra » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:56 pm

Nicely done.

I did this awhile ago and my alignment was slightly off and that caused some major foot pain til I realized and redrilled the holes.

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Post by E365 » Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:26 pm

Excellent! Those images are the first info I've ever seen from a manufacturer on how to mount bindings. Thank You!!

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Post by NordicSnipe » Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:12 pm

fishskicanoe wrote:That was very interesting.

I'm going to be moving a pair of Profils myself this weekend, although I was going to pay to have the holes drilled.
You should do it yourself. It's easy. Just practice on a piece of wood first

Image

Image

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Post by Cloxxki » Sun Jan 10, 2010 5:26 pm

Thanks! Wish I would have needed your post only now. I fought a few hours against total lack of documentation on this, in all languages I know.
I have a different Profil version it seems, labeled Fischer. Super hard to get the front part undone. Impossible, really, I had to MAKE it work, rather than use it in some pre-designed manner.
I wonder why the thing needs to be 3-part.

Funny, I went through the trouble of ordering 115 bumbers for mine, and the ones I got didn't match the bindings I have. Luckily, at least for sweskates, 105 seems to work with my binding location (balance). I have anpther pair of Profiles though, and I consider putting them on skate skis to try skating on my classic shoes. To teach me some stability, is the idea. May not be worth the trouble though, might as well keep them on the classic skis to try that some marginal snow day.
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Post by AMessy » Sun Jan 10, 2010 5:59 pm

Are Pilot bindings similar in how they mount? I don't see where there is a cap for a rear screw.

I'm only asking for future reference, no plans to tear apart my skis without having adequate information.

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Post by NordicSnipe » Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:04 pm

E365 wrote:Excellent! Those images are the first info I've ever seen from a manufacturer on how to mount bindings. Thank You!!
Are you referring to the images from Fischer?
Here's the link to the full Technical Nordic Manual from Fischer.

http://www.fischersports.com/en/pagefli ... e_id=50469
AMessy wrote:Are Pilot bindings similar in how they mount? I don't see where there is a cap for a rear screw.

I'm only asking for future reference, no plans to tear apart my skis without having adequate information.
I haven't installed a pair of Pilot bindings before. Hopefully someone here can answer your question.

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Post by NordicSnipe » Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:50 pm

AMessy wrote:Are Pilot bindings similar in how they mount? I don't see where there is a cap for a rear screw.

I'm only asking for future reference, no plans to tear apart my skis without having adequate information.
It's a bit late, but I found a picture of Salomon Pilot Bindings.

Image

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Re: SNS Binding Tutorial (and General Binding Tute)

Post by grantdoug » Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:07 pm

Thank you for posting this and for the photographs.

It is possible using template method that heel alignment may be slightly off. i reduce this risk by drilling in steps:

1) follow your procedure, but don't drill all the holes at once
2) start with drilling the centered hole at the apex of the binding. screw it down without adhesive
3) insert the rear binding and check the alignment. adjust marks as needed
4) mark the 'bottom of the triangle' pair of holes at the toe binding, and drill them
5) assemble the rear binding, check the alignment with boot. adjust drill mark as needed
6) complete drilling heel hole
7) permanently mount the entire binding per your instructions

-Doug Grant

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Re: SNS Binding Tutorial (and General Binding Tute)

Post by BigHornBC » Wed Dec 25, 2013 1:54 pm

Sir, any ideas on how to access the toe screw on Fischer SNS profil bindings? I'm at a loss to find a seam, and the pin seems to be SET on the release mechanism.

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Re: SNS Binding Tutorial (and General Binding Tute)

Post by nxski » Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:35 pm

BigHornBC wrote:Sir, any ideas on how to access the toe screw on Fischer SNS profil bindings? I'm at a loss to find a seam, and the pin seems to be SET on the release mechanism.
Are these profil auto bindings? If so, simply press down on the front, stick a flat head driver in and pop it out (sorry, explaining in writing is difficult.

This write-up makes the binding install/removal look so complicated. In reality, the job requires 3 tools (Phillips, flat head and drill) and takes 5 minutes. A jig makes your life so much easier, as does a sink-hole drill bit.
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Re: SNS Binding Tutorial (and General Binding Tute)

Post by jt10000 » Sat Dec 28, 2013 12:05 am

nxski wrote:This write-up makes the binding install/removal look so complicated. In reality, the job requires 3 tools (Phillips, flat head and drill) and takes 5 minutes. A jig makes your life so much easier, as does a sink-hole drill bit.
Yeah.

Also, I've always used a posidrive screwdriver, not a Phillips.
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Re: SNS Binding Tutorial (and General Binding Tute)

Post by nxski » Sat Dec 28, 2013 11:42 am

jt10000 wrote:
nxski wrote:This write-up makes the binding install/removal look so complicated. In reality, the job requires 3 tools (Phillips, flat head and drill) and takes 5 minutes. A jig makes your life so much easier, as does a sink-hole drill bit.
Yeah.

Also, I've always used a posidrive screwdriver, not a Phillips.
My bad, posidrive is correct. Phillips is for the older SNS bindings.
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